Don't disconnect the slave cylinder hydraulic line as suggested in some articles, just zip tie the cylinder out of the way. Getting the clutch and flywheel balanced is probably a waste of time, as is getting a flywheel resurfaced as a new flywheel is cheap. If you do decide to do it, get the proper install tool (which will cost a lot more than the seal). How important is this?Īs suggested in many other threads, don't change the rear seal unless it is leaking. I plan on asking City Toyota what machine shop they use, and have them do it. If I can't do it tomorrow (most shops are closed), I'll do it Monday. I'm going to get the flywheel and clutch kit balanced and make sure the new flywheel has the step Toyota requires. What points on the engine should I use to hold it up? I have an engine support bar, and I know one point is the hook on the left exhaust side of the engine. What's the best way to remove the axles from the transmission without removing them from the hubs? Should I just pull them out of the hubs anyway? I have a 30mm 12 point socket and an impact. What about VSS, where is that? Any other plugs I'm not aware of? And the slave cylinder, it comes off the transmission how? How much has to come off the transmission before it's ready to be dropped? The shift cables and axles are obvious. Drain the transmission, drop the transmission, remove pressure plate, remove flywheel, replace rear main seal, throw on new flywheel with new flywheel bolts, torque bolts to spec, throw on new clutch and pressure plate with alignment tool, torque bolts to spec, replace transmission. Clutch kit, alignment tool, new flywheel, flywheel bolts, gear oil, brake fluid, 12 point sockets, a torque wrench, a rear main seal, and a sense of hope.
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